Chez Billy Sud

Friday Saturday Sunday earns its reputation without trying too hard — split across three floors with a cocktail bar downstairs and a proper dining room above, it's the kind of place where the duck fat fries show up and suddenly you're on hour three without noticing. The lighting does the work, the menu gives you things to talk about, and the staff doesn't rush you.

Le Gigot earns its reputation on candlelit tables, slow-braised French bistro cooking, and a Cornelia Street address that does half the romantic work for you. Order the namesake gigot d'agneau if it's on the menu, let the wine list do its thing, and don't rush — this place rewards lingering.